When we got back from Morocco, I was on a walk with a family member, and was telling him about how inexpensive it was to travel there (getting there is not cheap, although not terrible, but food, lodging, things you might want to do—all very affordable). He said, “Well, sure, depending what kind of places you’re willing to stay.” I stopped him right in the street and showed him my album of pictures from the palatial riads we stayed in. I have never, in my life, stayed anywhere so nice, nor had such a positive guest service experience, as every single riad we visited.
At each one, when we arrived, the staff greeted us and led us to low couches where they brought tea and cookies. One, in Midelt, had a cozy fire. In American hotels, even nice ones, I often feel like I’m an inconvenience for…existing. Moroccan riad staff were the opposite of that. They were kind, warm, funny, welcoming. They chatted with us, telling a bit about their history, their connection to the business (many were family-run), what things we should try to see while we were in their town.
The riads are all built around a central atrium or courtyard, with lots of light. All of the rooms open onto this central space. Some of them had pools (some decorative, one not!). They served dinner in the atria, or in adjacent dining rooms. All of them had art, beautiful furniture, careful crafting.
The rooms each had their own character. The furniture was made of carved and painted wood, and the floors were covered in handwoven rugs. Many of them had an additional small bed in an alcove where Petra could sleep if she wanted extra privacy. In many of the places where we stayed, the rooms had stained glass.
At one riad, Hmad knew the family that ran it, and set Kendall up to play chess with the manager. Just try that at a Marriot!





























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